The Russian Sapphire Cluster Brooch

The Russian Sapphire Cluster Brooch

A classic cluster design with a colored stone framed in diamonds, this brooch includes a large central sapphire with two rows of surrounding diamonds - the inner row is an intricate setting in gold, and the outer row is a ring of 18 round diamonds. According to the palace, Queen Mary acquired the brooch in 1934; it is said to have been one of the jewels she purchased from the daughters of the late Empress Marie Feodorovna, who sold some of her jewels after her death; there was companion brooch from that Russian collection as well (click here for more)*. Other sapphires were purchased by her at that time as well, including the sapphire and pearl brooch the Queen wears today, though it is worth noting that the records that exist from the sale of those jewels list Mary's last purchase in 1930. Again according to the palace, the brooch was left to the Queen when Queen Mary passed away in 1953, but it was Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother who would carry on wearing it. After the Queen Mother's death in 2002, it presumably returned to the Queen's collection, and she debuted the brooch in 2014.

Left to right: Queen Mary, the Queen Mother, the Queen

This particular brooch seems a piece destined to be the source of much confusion. Like the Carrington Sapphire Feather Brooch, it has a stone that might lean to the purple side of the color spectrum and it has been worn on both blue and purple outfits, leading some to identify it as an amethyst. It is sometimes misidentified as the brooch that was given to the late Diana, Princess of Wales as a wedding gift by the Queen Mother (the same brooch that she turned into the centerpiece of her most famous pearl choker), though Diana's sapphire brooch does not have the gold detailing on the interior diamond ring and has more diamonds on the outer ring. This simple design - a sapphire surrounded by diamonds - leads to confusion with other sapphire brooches too, such as Prince Albert's Sapphire Brooch, or any of a number of similar brooches in existence today. Perhaps this similarity is one of the reasons the Queen waited so long to bring this one out of her vault.

Appearances:
20 October 2015: State Visit from China, State Banquet (on the back of the Garter sash, likely) 
3 April 2014: Visit to Rome

*Thanks to Rae for sending in this link.

Photos: Getty Images/Leslie Field/Corbis/BBC

Empress Marie Feodorovna's Sapphire Brooch

Empress Marie Feodorovna's Sapphire Brooch

Empress Marie Feodorovna (née Princess Dagmar of Denmark) was the wife of Alexander III of Russia. She received this brooch, an oval cabochon sapphire surrounded by two rows of diamonds with a pear drop pearl pendant, as a wedding gift in 1866 from her sister and brother-in-law, the Prince and Princess of Wales (the future King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra).

Empress Marie Feodorovna (facing forward; the brooch is on her dress) with her sisters Alexandra and Thyra and their father King Christian IX

It was one of the jewels that made it out when the Dowager Empress fled revolutionary Russia, but it wasn't to stay in Russian hands for long. Following her death many of her jewels were sold by her daughters, Grand Duchesses Xenia and Olga. The sale was aided by King George V and Queen Mary (and has been the source of much confusion ever since, often painting George and Mary in a poor light), and Mary purchased some of the items.

Queen Mary

Given her love of and zeal to preserve family history, Queen Mary must have felt a special draw to the brooch her late parents-in-law once gifted her husband's aunt, and she bought it in 1930. Records from the sale brokered by Hennell's show that the brooch's estimated value had originally been £2,700-£3,250; however, by the time Mary purchased it the market had taken a downturn, and the estimate dropped to £1,400-£1,900. She paid £2,375 for the brooch, over the estimated value. 

At far right, the Queen wears the sapphire portion without the pearl pendant

It was among the pieces remaining in Mary's jewel collection at the time of her death in 1953, and was inherited by the Queen along with the rest. She has worn it without the pearl pendant, though she primarily wears it in its full form. It's a jewel I'd love to see more of - it's so lovely I just wish it were more of a favorite.

Appearances:
18 December 2019: Royal British Legion's Together at Christmas Launch
12 June 2019: Audiences at Buckingham Palace
1 June 2018: Investiture at Buckingham Palace
11 April 2018: Audience at Windsor Castle
18 July 2017: Audience at Buckingham Palace
3 July 2016: Holyrood Week: Church at Canongate Kirk
15 March 2016: Audience at Buckingham Palace
5 February 2016: Visit from The Emir of Kuwait
3 July 2015: Holyrood Week, Day 4: Visit to Glasgow
19 May 2015: Audience at Buckingham Palace
17 June 2014: Visit from the Chinese Premier
9 June 2014: Technology Sector Reception
21 May 2014: Audience at Buckingham Palace
25 February 2014: Audiences at Buckingham Palace
11 June 2013: Audience at Buckingham Palace 
2010: State Visit to the UAE and Oman  (Worn without pearl pendant)
1987: Easter Service
1973, 1980: Chelsea Flower Show 
1972, 1995: Royal Maundy Service 
1958: State Visit from Germany
1958: State Visit to the Netherlands 
Various Years: Christmas Broadcast  

Photos: Queen Elizabeth II/Leslie Field/Corbis/Getty Images